Recently, I popped alont to the Brown Thomas Spring Summer 2017 press preview and it was such a delight to see.
Get ready for a summer season reminiscent of the past with nostalgic references to the eclectic eighties and the soft romance of the Victorian Era; designers gave vintage classics a futuristic update. ‘Hyper Florals’ was a dominant trend on the international runways along with ‘Colour Pop’ from intense brights at Céline and Balenciaga to sand-washed hues at Valentino – colour was abundant. Brown Thomas has introduced coveted international designers for SS17 including Caroline Constas, Chinti & Parker, Coach, Jacquemus, Lisa Marie Fernandez, Magda Butrym, Monse, Sies Marjan, Tibi, Zimmermann and 3×1 Denim.
Continuing on from last season, shoulders remain exposed with asymmetric cuts and open necklines contributing to a summer sensuality. Silhouettes with a sense of humour add a playful appeal. The 1980s is seen in its purest form with excessive power shoulders on the runways at Vetements and Balenciaga but designs are mostly soft and feminine.
Vibrant ‘Hyper Florals’ seen at Dolce & Gabbana reference a Club Tropicana vibe reminiscent of Cuba and Brazil, whilst exotic dresses adorned with oversized blooms and fun prints at Dries Van Noten echo the glamour of the Riviera. Not for the faint hearted, colour clashing is a huge trend for the season with the most notable being vibrant shades of red and pink at Peter Pilotto and Erdem.
In harmony with the recurring influences of the past – the trend ‘Future Past’ featured Victorian and Edwardian influences of Baroque appliqués, corsetry, feathers and clustered embellishments as seen at Gucci, Alexander McQueen and new label Zimmermann. The waist, either belted or nipped in, was a key focus with body contouring shapes used to flatter the female form at Dior. A ‘Shirting Redux’ was also seen on the catwalks with the use of asymmetrical hemlines and deconstructed silhouettes seen at new labels Monse and Magda Butrym.
Prada, Alexander Wang and Proenza Schouler all embraced ‘Modern Athleisure’ fusing leisurewear with contemporary details like parachute silhouettes and drawstrings. The use of bold colour-blocking emphasised the modernist theme.
Female empowerment is a key fashion focus for 2017 and girl power is showcased amongst strong feminine silhouettes and slogans in many collections including Dior, Sacai and Stella McCartney. Adding a futuristic twist to much-loved classic pieces summarises a very modern, energetic, playful and colourful season.
Reminiscent of a 1980s disco party, the power shoulder, oversized silhouette and shiny sequins are revived and celebrated for Spring Summer. Balenciaga leads the way with bold prints and excessive broad shoulders. Asymmetrical neck and hem-lines at Saint Laurent and Isabel Marant encapsulate the 1980s mood. Vibrant bright colours, clashing palette combinations, high shine and metallic are all in the mix for this eighties revival.
A modern trend born on the streets has transcended onto the international designer runways. The style set’s secret to this look is achieved by mixing athletic detailing with a relaxed urban feel. Think oversized sweatshirts, slouchy jumpsuits and stripes on contrasting fluid and wide-leg trousers. Prada showcases innovative activewear-inspired materials which lends a futuristic edge. At Chloé, drawstrings transformed the guise of softly draped dresses into asymmetric shapes. The bralet adds a feminine and modern touch to the leisurewear theme at Alexander Wang.
Looks are layered, sliced, precise and reimagined to create novel silhouettes at J.W.Anderson, Stella McCartney and Peter Pilotto. Mens tailoring creates powerful boxy looks at Balenciaga and Dries Van Noten. New label Monse reimagines the shirt in deconstructed yet innovative feminine shapes. This trend’s palette is presented in classic tailoring colours of white and pale blue. A perennial summer favourite, stripes are updated in fine or bold styles.
Designers including Prada, Gucci and Alexander McQueen reinvent and present historical favourites in contemporary shapes for the modern woman this season. Nostalgic Edwardian and Victorian references include ruffles, feathers, corsetry, Baroque appliqué and clustered embellishment. New label Zimmermann features vintage lacing techniques on light chiffon to create soft romantic silhouettes. Provocative applications, off the shoulder details, unusual pairings and sheer gossamer result in transparent floating dresses which have a distinct feminine sensibility. Boudoir dressing adds a historical reference and inspires wearing lingerie as outerwear.
After a dark winter, refreshing summer colours captivate the season ahead. Designers move away from neutral colours and experiment with bolder, fresher tones including primary brights, pastel and acidic hues. New label Sies Marjan features dazzling shades of tangerine, aquamarine, pink and scarlet to underpin this collection. Unexpected contrasting luminous colours like purple and green at Céline and pink and red at Balenciaga deliver newness and fun to sophisticated shapes. A sea of red made a statement across the collections at Alaïa, Céline, Balenciaga and Valentino.
A fantastic explosion of blooms arrive for spring while exotic tropical floral prints with a sense of humour emphasise the carefree months ahead and add a youthful appeal to summer sensuality. ‘The bigger, the better’ is the mantra for this trend with key pieces from Dolce & Gabbana, Vetements, Céline and new label Magda Butrym.
This trend is all about looking forward to a new silhouette, playing with exaggerated proportions by enhancing shoulders and nipping in the waist. Designers use innovative fabrics and couture tailoring techniques to create this novel silhouette at Proenza Schouler, Balenciaga and Marni. Maticevski plays with light fabrics to create volume while pushing the boundaries and creating dramatic shapes of the future with texture.
Above: watch the shirting trend for 2017 thanks for J.W Anderson
Fashion editors, journalists, stylists and bloggers awaiting the Brown Thomas #SS17 show to start.
What I wore to the show:
Zara coat, Tory Burch shoes (bought at Brown Thomas), Mulberry bag and Ted Baker pearl collar.Tweet